Fashion Week 2012: Women’s Wear in Paris and Milan
Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks are considered more high art than New York, with top designers rolling out their couture collections. But even with outfits appearing more “art” than wearable, these two early year events still set the stage for spring and summer trends. While we covered the men’s collections last week, women’s wear, both couture and ready-to-wear, was rolled out this week. Although plenty of styles were seen on the runway, nearly all collections scream “retro” in the following ways:
• Mad Men-Inspired. Yes, the cable television show is right on the cusp of its fifth season, and Banana Republic, just about a year ago, created an inspired line. Taking the trends a few steps up, designers from Dior to Gaultier to Chanel all hint at the ‘60s with their latest women’s wear. Pencil skirts are cinched at the waist, crinoline skirts fan out, and Chanel, apparently taking a cue from the recently canceled Pan-Am, previewed a collection of light blue and teal drop-waist dresses. Gaultier even appeared to use the late Amy Winehouse, who frequently alluded to the 1960s with her look and sound, as a muse.
• Barbarella-esque Jumpsuits. Call them rompers or jumpsuits, but, either way, these full-body outfits are no longer reminiscent of children’s clothing. Rather, skin tight and with an accented bustier, such a style is more grown up – but more futuristic than truly mature. A Barbarella remake has been kicked around in Hollywood for years, so perhaps this trend hints that the updated version of the Jane Fonda B-movie will finally hit the big screen. Then again, this trend could fall just as flat as the catsuits inspired by 1998 film The Avengers.
• Defined Shoulders. No, the shoulder pads of the 1980s have not returned. As a modified version of this trend, loose jackets with defined, broad shoulders were worn on top of tighter, shorter outfits or skirts, with Balenciaga draping each model with this combination. Appearing much like a men’s jacket, rather than the waist-accenting style for women, such a look may eventually be dubbed “the boyfriend jacket” – but don’t pair it with your boyfriend jeans from a few seasons ago.
• Bright Colors, Vivid Patterns. Pastels are so passé. Instead, spring and summer women’s wear leans toward vibrancy. Fully-colored yellow, lime, or gold outfits make a bold statement, while tropical-themed floral prints, which characterized the entire Dolce and Gabbana collection, catch the eye through bold shades and intricate composition.

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